Maggie McFee – Whinging on the Internet since 1994

Just a quick update and Sky Captain ray gun update

// April 24th, 2022 // Comments Off on Just a quick update and Sky Captain ray gun update // 3D, props

I have a slew of things I should post here and on https://skyfortress.studio but since it’s prominently displayed here, I wanted to post an update re: my Sky Captain (or Dex) ray gun model. I’ve made a lot of refinements and here’s the current build.

My prop replicas, let me show you them

// January 3rd, 2019 // Comments Off on My prop replicas, let me show you them // Uncategorized

You may be looking for http://skyfortress.studio/. Maybe. Maybe not.

You can find my Old School Video Games site at OSVG.net

You can find my (mostly Amiga-related) online store at OSVG Store

Something in the works – Sky Captain, Dex’s ray gun

// June 12th, 2016 // Comments Off on Something in the works – Sky Captain, Dex’s ray gun // 3D, props

UPDATE: Here’s a pic of the assembled and finished version (plus stand).
UPDATE UPDATE: This now lives in Adam Savage’s cave. But I have made more since.

Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow ray gun replica by Maggie McFee

So let me just get this confession out of the way.

I love Kerry Conran’s Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow. I love it to death, warts and all. Roger Ebert said of the film, “It’s like a film that escaped from the imagination directly onto the screen, without having to pass through reality along the way.”

Well, the imagination in question could have been mine, if it hadn’t been Kerry and Kevin Conran’s. It speaks to me on a very deep level; It’s a film that could have been made just for me. I’m not old enough to remember film and radio serials, obviously, but I did grow up on a steady diet of SciFi — Doctor Who and Star Trek being staples of my diet and, of course, Star Wars — and that diet sometimes included old serials which played on a local TV station late at night as filler for the late night movie. I recall many a night sneaking out of bed to watch Flash Gordon or some other B&W treat quietly in the living room while my parents slept. Hey, they advertised them during the afternoon when I was watching cartoons, how could I resist? Later in life I developed a fascination with old radio serials as well and listened to countless hours of them.

Sky Captain was like a concentrated booster shot of all that: Giant robots, heroes in tricked out aircraft, swaggering female fighter aces, flying aircraft carriers… and ray guns. Sky Captain was a siren call to me in 2004. And there’s one prop from the film I’ve always wanted, in some form or other, but never have found: Dex’s ray gun. Sure, I have the ornament version, but that’s small consolation. Literally. So I decided it was time to make my own and got to modeling. I’ve printed a couple (you can see one here, but bear in mind this is a rough version) to test and hand fit and I’m still tweaking, but it’s about 95% done, I think. I’ve extended the nose cone a bit since I took this screen shot, but this is how the current model looks.

More soon as I’ll be building and painting a clean final version soon.

Prototyping and Printing

// May 21st, 2016 // Comments Off on Prototyping and Printing // art, props

I finally broke down and bought a grown-up 3D printer. My Prusa i3 was fine, as far as it went, but my growing envy of the nice (and giant) prints of Lulzbot TAZ 5 owners’s like James Bruton did me in. So I bought a Lulzbot TAZ 5 and added a FlexyDually dual extruder which allows me to print in normal materials from the primary head as well as flexible (such as Ninjaflex) and support materials from a second head. And I don’t regret it one bit. This machine is heaven. It’s like going from a motorcycle to a luxury car.

Speaking of printing, I’ve been designing/prototyping some props. More on all these later, but here’s a peek at what’s on deck at the moment.

The first is a scratch-built Commlock (another Space: 1999 prop). I’m calling it a prototype in that the idea was to figure out how to build one well by building one at all. :) I have a screen and electronics for the next iteration using what I learned. This one, as will the next, was built from Plastruct sheets and tubing, some laser cut elements, 3D printed buttons with white-on-black label tape for the numbers.

Related, I just bought a Century Casting commlock off eBay, so I’ll build that later as well. But the scratch-builts are my first priority.

I’ve also been working on 3D modeling the Vulcan 65 grenade from the first Hellboy movie. I have a few additions to make on the internals and just finished making the top removable, but I’ve pretty happy with the overall design. I’ll make a couple more and then I may make a cast of it so I can make some resin versions. I plan to add LEDs to one or two of the later printed ones.

The lettering is done using waterslide decals I designed and printed in Photoshop.

Yet another Hellboy prop I’m working on is Ilsa’s salt cellar, the one containing the tears of a thousand angels (or martyrs in the earlier script). This one has been all about modeling and learning to make a patina’d surface look right. I solid-modeled the base, legs and dome. The glass is just a 7″ glass vase. It’s not exactly the right size. It’s 7″ high and about 3.2″ wide, should be more like 4″ wide, I think. I’m currently looking for a better one (or two… or twelve). Adam Savage actually owns the original and once put up a bunch of hi-rez photos on The RPF, but they’re no longer there. So I’m working on the [missing] dome art using screen grabs from the movie. I have to sort out how to do the knurling on the edges since that’s difficult to print.

Speaking of Adam Savage, I’m also working on a replica of a prop he was originally involved in designing and building. In Bicentennial Man, there’s a very neat little art deco eye examination device. It’s all black and brass and it’s terribly, terribly interesting. I started modeling it a while ago and printed a test to make sure it all fit together. It didn’t. But I sanded it down and slapped some paint on it just to see how it looked. It looked like someone painted it quickly is what it looked like. hehe Anywho, I’ve added the splines on the sides and adjusted the center piece so the next one should fit together better. Once I’ve got it looking right I’ll print another, add the LEDS and do a proper paint on it. Maybe I’ll also send one to Adam… ;)

And then I’d like to build a HUD Motion Tracker from Aliens… but that’s for another day.

Afternoon diorama build for NECA Alien figures

// April 14th, 2016 // Comments Off on Afternoon diorama build for NECA Alien figures // props

The original Alien movie is still one of my favorite films. Like it’s sibling Blade Runner, also one of my all-time favorites, I’ve no idea how many times I’ve seen it. Let’s just go with “A lot.”

I recently bought some of NECA’s fantastic Alien and Aliens figures, so I decided I wanted to build dioramas for at least two scenes, maybe three. For sure I wanted to build one of Ripley and the ‘Big Chap’ xenomorph in a Nostromo corridor. Another I plan to do is an airlock scene with [all space-suited] Dallas, an Amanda Ripley figure standing in for Lambert, and Kane with melted visor and facehugger. I’m also considering a Narcissus shuttle scene with Ripley in the white ‘compression suit’ and a Big Chap, but I’m not sure if I’ll get up the nerve to tackle that as it’s a bit more complex. I also have the NECA Powerloader, so… who knows what could happen with that one day!

Here’s the first diorama, Ripley (and Jones!) and Big Chap in a corridor of the Nostromo. The overall structure is made of white and black foamcore glued to a hardboard base. The pipes, slats and straight bits are Plastruct styrene elements. The floor is Plastruct terracotta roof sheet sprayed black. The other bits (mostly hidden behind the xenomorph in the photos, unfortunately) are kit-bashed from sprues, the Tamiya Flakvierling 38 kit and I think a couple of things from a AMT Saturn V kit.

Space: 1999 22″ Eagle build

// April 14th, 2016 // Comments Off on Space: 1999 22″ Eagle build // props

Recently Round2 released the model I’ve been waiting most of my life for: A 22″ Eagle Transporter from Space:1999. I can’t adequately express my love for this [fictional] spacecraft design. It is simply brilliant and utterly believable. It’s practical and beautiful in its utilitarianism. The show itself hasn’t aged well, but the design of this wonderful craft certainly has. So. I had to build one… maybe two. As I told my friend John [Foster, also an Eagle enthusiast], I have an Eagle Rule; When any new Eagle model is released, all other projects hit the backburner.

In the past, I’ve built one each of the old (and just ‘adequate’) MPC and AMT 11″ kits. This was some time ago and I don’t have either any more. But since then I’ve built a Warp Models kit (resin kit with lots of white metal parts including an all-metal spine) and the Round2 Deluxe re-issue of the MPC kit with lab pod and booster.

But the 22″ is the one I’ve been waiting on… for years. And not only did Round2 produce a 22″ Eagle kit, they also offered an upgrade kit with metal engine bells and another kit with metal attitude thrusters. Being the lover of this fictional spacecraft that I am, I went for the upgrades along with the kit. In fact… I ended up buying two sets of all. One day I’ll build another 22″ with, maybe, a rescue pod. (I recommend visiting CultTVMan if you’d like to buy your own)

OK. Apart from being bigger, what’s the deal with this whole 22″ thing? During the original production of Space: 1999 three scales of Eagle Transporters were built. 44-inches, 22-inches and roughly 11-inches (OK, and a 5-inch version, but… no one ever talks about that one). I don’t expect I’ll ever build or acquire a 44″ Eagle, but I’m quite happy with the 22″ version. I also built a 1:48 scale buggy to go with it as I did for my 1:72 Warp Models Eagle (shown below for size comparison).

So without further ado, my 22″ Eagle Transporter (I may post some ‘in progress’ pics later):

Hellboy Samaritan replica

// February 22nd, 2016 // 1 Comment » // props

I probably implied I was then going back to work on the 22″ Round 2 Space 1999 Eagle Transporter I’ve been tweeting about, but… I couldn’t resist. I really do lament not having a Samaritan (aka Good Samaritan) in my collection and constantly kick myself for not having bought one of the Sideshow Collectibles replicas back when they came out. So I downloaded one of the better 3D models out there (thanks danonator and JerseyBeast) and, after tweaking the top strap/breach (I know, it’s a revolver, but it has a breach in the top strap) and some scaling I started printing it to put together later.

And then I couldn’t help myself. The print came out so nice. And my re-modeled breach made me happy and… This happened over the course of yesterday and today
(Update: The stand in the first pic is a new addition. I designed and printed the 2 arms, nameplate, and ammo holder, then painted them to look like old cast bronze. I stained and weathered the wooden box, printed the BPRD logo from the original hilt again and put that all together. I also printed some of d3delta3d’s ammo.)

I sanded the print, but I didn’t really go out of my way to hide that it’s 3D-printed. That’s probably most evident on the cylinder and grip. But I did sand, rub down with acetone and then paint the parts with a hammered metal spray. That was topped with some flat clear coat. Then I weathered it with silver (plus rub down with my filthy paint-covered fingers).

The hammer and trigger were painted with metallic shimmer and then dusted with flat black. The pin and one of the screws were done in copper and then smudged to flatten.

The grip is acrylic paint starting with a dark brown, some watered-down tan on top of that, then black wipes with a brush and later a wide-cell sponge to create the grain. Several coats of clear gloss and it was a fair approximation of the real thing (although the grip isn’t on-model at the crown, but it’s close enough). I added the BPRD medallion, which was painted silver, then weathered with black acrylic and wiped down to a dull iron look.

The ring in the butt (stop laughing) is a piece of jewelry, a captive bead ring, dulled and squeezed into a circle. Then I tied a piece of leather cord to it (after dipping into some coffee to stain it – yes, I was drinking coffee at 10pm, because I’m an adult and I can do what I want.)

And there you have it. A ‘pretty close’ replica of Hellboy’s [Good] Samaritan. I feel better now. Well, I will be after I print some shells for it and a stand. Then, I swear I’ll get back to the Eagle!

But first… maybe I’ll fix the scale and print another that I can make more accurate. For later, I mean. Really!

Cult of Cthulhu box

// February 14th, 2016 // Comments Off on Cult of Cthulhu box // art, props

This was a weekend build (but more like two evenings) of a prototype for an idea I had earlier in the week; A box for Cthulhu cultists to hold sacred artifacts.  I’m happy with how it turned out, however I think the next version will be a pocket box which pulls out of the top of the standing outer box. I’ll probably add a handle to the top of this one as, after looking at the pics, it seems appropriate (and what gave me the idea to make it a pocket box next time.)

This is made using an off-the-shelf wooden craft store box with the catch removed. It’s covered in a synthetic hide which I bought off Amazon a while ago. The legs, corners, domed tacks and fake lock mechanism are scrap-booking ornaments bought at Michaels (mostly Jim Holtz brand). They’re sprayed with Dark Bronze hammered-finish paint (except the lock which I decided I’d paint as thought it were iron and rusty) and them weathered with Testor’s gold, Alclad ‘Burnt Iron’, and dulling spray. The interior has a felt bottom and Damask wallpaper in the upper lid. The wood is darkened and aged with a combination of brown acrylic paint and an india ink wash. Spritzes of flat black paint and dulling sprays over everything knock down any remaining shine. A smudged bloody thumb print also seemed appropriate. :)

The Cthulhu sigil is 3D-printed using a model from Thingiverse designed by Al Billings. It was sanded, painted with black hammered-finish spray, then weathered with Testor’s gold, a gold paint pen, a green-gold paint pen and india ink wash. The sigil and corners were bonded to the case using super glue,  accelerator and some Gorilla Glue for good measure. The legs were glued the same way, but also have small screws in the bottom for rigidity.

As its a prototype, I haven’t decided if I’ll keep it. Any cultists looking for somewhere to store a dried heart or tentacle, feel free to make an offer.

HIC Prusa i3 3DP-11 – config file for Marlin

// November 29th, 2015 // Comments Off on HIC Prusa i3 3DP-11 – config file for Marlin // tech

[2016 update: I’m currently running two Lulzbot Taz, but I’ve added a second extruder to the Prusa below. Once I starttinkering with it again I’ll post the config for that here as well since this post got kind of popular. I guess a lot of other people also had issues getting the proper settings from HIC.]

I had a lot of trouble finding an example Configuration.h for my new HIC/HICTOP 3DP-11 Prusa i3 while trying to tune the machine a bit (turned out my Y axis pulley gear was just slipping). I did find this page on RepRap.org about a previous issue and a link to a zip file with Marlin and a config file, but I guess this was for the earlier acrylic version. My new aluminum version had several differences (not the least of which was the homing settings). So I set out to make my own. Enjoy at your own risk.

Update: Crazy fun fact, Internet. Maggie is a girl’s name. Pretty much worldwide. I’m a girl. I only mention this because people keep linking to “this “guy’s page” and don’t seem to realize this little detail (although I seriously doubt any of them have ever met a dude named Maggie.) So, please? A little respect? Thus endeth the update.

#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H

// This configurtion file contains the basic settings.
// Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h
// BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperature sensor type, axis scaling, and endstop configuration

//User specified version info of this build to display in [Pronterface, etc] terminal window during startup.
//Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made
//to this build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.

#define STRING_VERSION_CONFIG_H __DATE__ " " __TIME__ // build date and time
#define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "(Maggie McFee, HICTOP Prusa Mendel i3)"

// Modified from file by Nathan Palella for earlier model
// Found at http://reprap.org/wiki/HICTOP_Prusa_i3
// But aluminum frame HIC 3DP-11 with heated bed is slightly different.
// I couldn't find a suitable config file so I made this one.

// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.
// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
#define SERIAL_PORT 0

// This determines the communication speed of the printer
#define BAUDRATE 115200

//// The following define selects which electronics board you have. 
//// Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 10 = Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) "https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics"
// 11 = Gen7 v1.1, v1.2 = 11
// 12 = Gen7 v1.3
// 13 = Gen7 v1.4
// 3 = MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2 = 3
// 33 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Bed, Fan)
// 34 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
// 4 = Duemilanove w/ ATMega328P pin assignment
// 5 = Gen6
// 51 = Gen6 deluxe
// 6 = Sanguinololu < 1.2
// 62 = Sanguinololu 1.2 and above
// 63 = Melzi
// 64 = STB V1.1
// 7 = Ultimaker
// 71 = Ultimaker (Older electronics. Pre 1.5.4. This is rare)
// 8 = Teensylu
// 80 = Rumba
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)
// 82 = Brainwave (AT90USB646)
// 9 = Gen3+
// 70 = Megatronics
// 701= Megatronics v2.0
// 702= Minitronics v1.0
// 90 = Alpha OMCA board
// 91 = Final OMCA board
// 301 = Rambo
//
// HIC i3 uses #33 RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Bed, Fan)

#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD 33
#endif

// This defines the number of extruders
#define EXTRUDERS 1

//// The following define selects which power supply you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 1 = ATX
// 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)
// 
// HIC i3 uses an ATX stye power supply... more or less.

#define POWER_SUPPLY 1

//===========================================================================
//=============================Thermal Settings ============================
//===========================================================================
//
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
//
// 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
// (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the recidency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
//
// HIC extruder and bed limits are fairly low, using 260 and 120 as ballpark max

#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 260
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 260
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 260
#define BED_MAXTEMP 120

// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
//
//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4

// PID settings:
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.

#define PIDTEMP
#define BANG_MAX 256 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 256=full current
#define PID_MAX 256 // limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 256=full current
#ifdef PIDTEMP

//#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.
//#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX

#define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 10 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and
 // the actual temperature is more then PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the
 // PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max.
 
#define PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX 255 //limit for the integral term
#define K1 0.95 //smoothing factor withing the PID
#define PID_dT ((16.0 * 8.0)/(F_CPU / 64.0 / 256.0)) //sampling period of the temperature routine

// If you are using a preconfigured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
// Ultimaker
//
// Honestly, this just worked so I'm leaving it as is.

 #define DEFAULT_Kp 22.2
 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.08
 #define DEFAULT_Kd 114

// Makergear
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 0.1
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 12

// Mendel Parts V9 on 12V
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 440
#endif // PIDTEMP

// Bed Temperature Control
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED. If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
//
// uncomment this to enable PID on the bed. It uses the same frequency PWM as the extruder.
// If your PID_dT above is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater.
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you proabaly
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED
//
//#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING

// This sets the max power delived to the bed, and replaces the HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER option.
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 256 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed. (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)


#define MAX_BED_POWER 256 // limits duty cycle to bed; 256=full current

#ifdef PIDTEMPBED
//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, argressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
 #define DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
 #define DEFAULT_bedKi .023
 #define DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4

//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from pidautotune
// #define DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
// #define DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
// #define DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16

// FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.
#endif // PIDTEMPBED



//this prevents dangerous Extruder moves, i.e. if the temperature is under the limit
//can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE

//if PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE is on, you can still disable (uncomment) very long bits of extrusion separately.
#define PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE

#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170
#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH (X_MAX_LENGTH+Y_MAX_LENGTH) //prevent extrusion of very large distances.

//===========================================================================
//=============================Mechanical Settings===========================
//===========================================================================


// Uncomment this option to enable CoreXY kinematics
// #define COREXY

// Uncomment this option to enable CoreXZ kinematics
// #define COREXZ

// Coarse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

#ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
 // fine Enstop settings: Individual Pullups. will be ignord if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

#ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
 #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.

// Let's not do this...
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS

// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders

// Disables axis when it's not being used.
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders

#define INVERT_X_DIR false // HIC i3 = false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // HIC i3 = false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true // HIC i3 = true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // HIC i3 = false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // HIC i3 = false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // HIC i3 = false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define min_software_endstops true //If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true //If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.

// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 270
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 175 // You can set to 180 if you'd like. I have an endstop switch so 170 is my max.
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_LENGTH (X_MAX_POS - X_MIN_POS)
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH (Y_MAX_POS - Y_MIN_POS)
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH (Z_MAX_POS - Z_MIN_POS)

// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0 // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

//Manual homing switch locations:
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0

//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,2560,94.4962144} // default for HIC i3 80,80,2560,94.4962144
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 25} // (mm/sec) default for HIC i3 500, 500, 5, 25
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,10000} // X, Y, Z, E max start speed for accelerated moves. 
 // E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instanteneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 // (mm/sec)

//===========================================================================
//=============================Additional Features===========================
//===========================================================================

// EEPROM
// the microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...
// M500 - stores paramters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings". You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable eeprom support
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
//to disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
// please keep turned on if you can.
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT

// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 200 
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 0
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // 255 is loud, set to around 190 if you'd like quieter

#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 245
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 90
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 0 // I don't want the blower on for ABS. You may feel differently.
 // See also #define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED in Configuration_adv.h
 
//LCD and SD support

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

//automatic expansion
#if defined (REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER)
 #define DOGLCD
 #define U8GLIB_ST7920
 #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
#endif

#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER) || defined(G3D_PANEL)
 #define ULTIPANEL
 #define NEWPANEL
#endif

#if defined(REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD)
 #define NEWPANEL
 #define ULTIPANEL
#endif

//I2C PANELS

//#define LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
#ifdef LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
 // This uses the LiquidCrystal_I2C library ( https://bitbucket.org/fmalpartida/new-liquidcrystal/wiki/Home )
 // Make sure it is placed in the Arduino libraries directory.
 #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_PCF8575
 #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x27 // I2C Address of the port expander
 #define NEWPANEL
 #define ULTIPANEL 
#endif

// PANELOLU2 LCD with status LEDs, separate encoder and click inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
#ifdef LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
 // This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( https://github.com/lincomatic/LiquidTWI2 )
 // Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
 // (v1.2.3 no longer requires you to define PANELOLU in the LiquidTWI2.h library header file)
 // Note: The PANELOLU2 encoder click input can either be directly connected to a pin 
 // (if BTN_ENC defined to != -1) or read through I2C (when BTN_ENC == -1). 
 #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017
 #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
 #define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD
 #define NEWPANEL
 #define ULTIPANEL 
#endif

// Panucatt VIKI LCD with status LEDs, integrated click & L/R/U/P buttons, separate encoder inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_VIKI
#ifdef LCD_I2C_VIKI
 // This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( https://github.com/lincomatic/LiquidTWI2 )
 // Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
 // Note: The pause/stop/resume LCD button pin should be connected to the Arduino
 // BTN_ENC pin (or set BTN_ENC to -1 if not used)
 #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017 
 #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
 #define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD (requires LiquidTWI2 v1.2.3 or later)
 #define NEWPANEL
 #define ULTIPANEL 
#endif

#ifdef ULTIPANEL
// #define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
 #define SDSUPPORT
 #define ULTRA_LCD
 #ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the DOG graphic display
 #define LCD_WIDTH 20
 #define LCD_HEIGHT 5
 #else
 #define LCD_WIDTH 20
 #define LCD_HEIGHT 4
 #endif
#else //no panel but just lcd
 #ifdef ULTRA_LCD
 #ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the 128x64 graphics display
 #define LCD_WIDTH 20
 #define LCD_HEIGHT 5
 #else
 #define LCD_WIDTH 16
 #define LCD_HEIGHT 2
 #endif
 #endif
#endif

// Increase the FAN pwm frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN


/*********************************************************************\
*
* R/C SERVO support
*
* Sponsored by TrinityLabs, Reworked by codexmas
*
**********************************************************************/

// Number of servos
//
// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually
// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some
// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem
// If unsure, leave commented / disabled
//
// #define NUM_SERVOS 3

#include "Configuration_adv.h"
#include "thermistortables.h"

#endif //__CONFIGURATION_H

#ImAStarCitizen lady-type-character-person

// September 8th, 2015 // Comments Off on #ImAStarCitizen lady-type-character-person // art, games

A very cool thing that’s currently making the rounds of Cool Things is the Star Citizen #ImAStarCitizen info card. Tom Banks has created this for fun and with the tacit blessing (and some assets) from CIG.

However, what he doesn’t currently have is templates for the women of Star Citizen (mostly because the there aren’t any yet. The in-game characters are all still in the work). So, based on some concept art, I created two templates lady pilots and explorers can use for now when creating a card (until Tom gets hold of some real ones). Feel free to copy one of the image links below and put them in the custom box here: http://www.imastarcitizen.com/infocard

Image 1: Copy this link

Image 2: Copy this link